High in the French Alps, where dairy cows graze on steep meadows filled with grasses, herbs and wildflowers, cheesemakers produce one of France’s most distinguished mountain cheeses: Beaufort d’Alpage.
Rich yet refined, firm yet melting, this celebrated cheese carries the character of its Alpine surroundings in every slice. Its production is limited by geography, season, altitude and traditional methods, making it considerably more specialized than ordinary Beaufort.
The official designation is Beaufort Chalet d’Alpage, although it is often shortened to Beaufort d’Alpage. It represents a small, highly prized portion of the Beaufort family—cheese made in the mountains from the warm milk of cows grazing summer pastures.
What Is Beaufort?
Beaufort is a large, cooked, pressed-curd cheese made exclusively from raw, whole cow’s milk. It belongs to the same broad family of Alpine cheeses as Gruyère and Comté, but it has its own protected identity, production region and distinctive personality.
Production is restricted to the high-mountain areas of Savoie, including the Beaufortain, Tarentaise and Maurienne valleys and part of the Val d’Arly. Beaufort has been protected under its French designation of origin since 1968 and is now recognized under the European Protected Designation of Origin system.
A finished Beaufort wheel has a firm, rubbed rind ranging from yellow to brown and an ivory-to-pale-yellow interior. The paste is smooth, supple and generally free of the large holes associated with some Alpine cheeses. Under the official specifications, wheels may weigh between approximately 20 and 70 kilograms, although a typical wheel weighs close to 40 kilograms.
What Makes Beaufort d’Alpage Different?
Not every summer Beaufort can be called Beaufort Chalet d’Alpage.
To use this designation, the cheese must be made between June and October in an Alpine chalet located more than 1,500 meters—approximately 4,900 feet—above sea level. It must be produced according to traditional methods, twice each day, using the milk of no more than one herd. The cheese is made after the cows are milked while the milk is still closely connected to the place and conditions in which it was produced.
This differs from Beaufort Été, or summer Beaufort. Beaufort Été is also made during the grazing season and may use milk from cows feeding on Alpine pastures, but that milk can be transported to a permanent dairy in the valley. Beaufort Chalet d’Alpage must be made at altitude in the mountain chalet itself.
The distinction is important. The words d’alpage do not merely suggest a rustic style or mountain-inspired flavor. They refer to a precisely regulated system of seasonal, high-altitude cheesemaking.
Cows Built for the Mountains
Only milk from Tarine and Abondance cows may be used to make Beaufort.
Both breeds are well adapted to Savoie’s demanding terrain and climate. Tarine cattle, sometimes called Tarentaise cattle, are known for their reddish-brown coats, dark markings around the eyes and ability to move across steep slopes. Abondance cows are similarly valued for their strength, agility and milk quality.
During the grazing season, the herds move through mountain pastures as the grass grows at different elevations. This seasonal movement allows the animals to feed on fresh vegetation rather than remaining in a single field. The official Beaufort system closely regulates their diet, with pasture grass and hay forming the basic ration and silage prohibited.
The Influence of Alpine Pastures
The summer pastures of Savoie contain a varied mixture of grasses, clovers, flowers and aromatic plants. Differences in altitude, exposure, soil, rainfall and vegetation can affect the milk produced by each herd.
This does not mean the finished cheese tastes directly or obviously like individual flowers. Instead, the pasture contributes to a broader aromatic complexity. A wheel from one mountain or season may emphasize fruit, warm butter or hazelnut, while another may suggest dried herbs, hay or toasted nuts.
Because Beaufort d’Alpage is produced from one herd’s milk, its identity can be especially closely connected to a particular pasture and cheesemaking site. Weather conditions, the stage of the grazing season and the length of maturation can all influence the final character.
From Warm Milk to a Giant Wheel
Beaufort begins with raw, whole milk poured into a copper vat. The milk is not pasteurized or skimmed.
The cheesemaker warms it and adds traditional rennet and starter cultures. Once the milk coagulates, the curd is cut into very small grains. Cutting encourages whey to escape and helps produce a cheese with relatively low moisture and good aging potential.
The curds are gradually heated, stirred and then gathered in a linen cloth. The heavy mass is transferred into a special wooden hoop known as a Beaufort circle. The cheese is pressed for at least 15 hours, with the wheel turned during the process.
Although the basic steps may sound orderly, Beaufort d’Alpage requires considerable judgment. Raw milk changes according to the herd’s diet, the weather and the point in the season. The cheesemaker must adjust to the milk rather than relying entirely on a standardized formula.
The Famous Concave Heel
A wheel of Beaufort is immediately recognizable by its concave sides, commonly called its concave heel.
This shape is created by the flexible wooden hoop used during molding and pressing. Instead of producing a wheel with straight vertical sides, the band curves inward around the center.
The concave heel is more than decoration. It has become one of Beaufort’s defining visual characteristics and helps distinguish an authentic wheel. Historical explanations suggest the shape may also have made the large cheeses easier to secure during mountain transport or helped them maintain their structure while aging.
A Red Mark of Distinction
Authentic Beaufort wheels carry a blue oval casein plaque that provides traceability information.
Beaufort Chalet d’Alpage carries an additional identifier: a red square casein plaque placed on the opposite side of the wheel. This red marker indicates that the cheese met the special rules governing high-altitude chalet production.
For shoppers purchasing a cut portion rather than a complete wheel, the plaque may not be visible. A knowledgeable cheesemonger should still be able to identify the producer, season, age and style of the cheese.
Aging Beaufort d’Alpage
After pressing, the wheel is rested, placed in brine and transferred to a maturation cellar. It ages on spruce boards for a minimum of five months at carefully controlled temperatures.
During maturation, the wheels are salted, rubbed and turned regularly. These treatments help create the firm, yellowish-brown rind and encourage the development of the cheese’s characteristic aroma and texture.
Young Beaufort tends to be gentle, milky and supple. As it matures, its texture becomes more concentrated and its flavor gains depth. The Beaufort producers’ organization notes that the cheese often reaches an especially pleasing balance between approximately seven and 12 months, although longer-aged examples can develop greater intensity.
What Does Beaufort d’Alpage Taste Like?
Beaufort d’Alpage is often described as fruity, nutty and buttery, but its flavor is usually more nuanced than those words suggest.
The first impression may be mild and creamy, followed by notes recalling hazelnuts, warm milk, meadow herbs, dried hay or ripe fruit. More mature pieces may offer roasted-nut flavors and a lingering savory finish.
Its texture is one of its greatest pleasures. A properly matured piece begins firm but softens readily in the mouth. Rather than becoming brittle or sharply granular, it can feel smooth, dense and almost satin-like.
Beaufort is aromatic without normally being aggressive. The official sensory description emphasizes a firm-then-melting texture and varied aromas that should remain balanced rather than excessively powerful.
How to Serve It
Remove Beaufort d’Alpage from the refrigerator approximately 30 to 60 minutes before serving. Allowing it to approach cool room temperature releases more of its aroma and softens the texture.
Cut thin slices, narrow wedges or small irregular pieces rather than heavy cubes. It can be served with:
For serving: A quality cheese knife set makes it easier to cut and serve firm cheeses in slices, wedges and smaller pieces for a cheese board.
For presentation: A sturdy maple serving board provides an attractive surface for arranging cheese with bread, fruit, nuts and other accompaniments.
A seeded baguette or walnut bread
Fresh pears, apples or grapes
Dried apricots or figs
Toasted hazelnuts or walnuts
Mild mountain honey
Cornichons or lightly pickled vegetables
Because the cheese already has considerable complexity, accompaniments should support rather than overwhelm it.
Wine and Beverage Pairings
Regional wines make natural partners for Beaufort d’Alpage. A dry or gently rounded white wine from Savoie can complement the cheese’s buttery texture and Alpine character.
The official French PDO dairy association suggests pairings such as Chignin-Bergeron, Crémant de Savoie and craft lager.
Other suitable choices include a dry white wine with good acidity, traditional-method sparkling wine or a clean, malt-forward beer. Very tannic red wines can make the cheese seem more bitter or metallic, so lighter reds are generally more accommodating than heavily structured ones.
Cooking With Beaufort d’Alpage
Beaufort melts smoothly, making it excellent for fondue, gratins, sauces and baked dishes. It can enrich potatoes, polenta, pasta, eggs or savory pastries.
For the table: A cast iron fondue set provides a traditional-style way to keep melted cheese warm while guests dip bread and other accompaniments.
However, a fine Beaufort d’Alpage is also a limited and expressive cheese. Using an especially mature piece entirely in a cooked dish can conceal some of the qualities that make it distinctive.
A practical approach is to use a younger Beaufort for melting and reserve a mature Beaufort Chalet d’Alpage for the cheese board. When cooking with it, lower heat generally produces a smoother texture and reduces the likelihood of the fat separating.
A Cheese Shaped by Place
Beaufort d’Alpage is not simply Beaufort made during warm weather. It is a cheese tied to high-altitude pasture, a single herd, twice-daily production and the demanding rhythm of life in an Alpine chalet.
Its great appeal comes from balance. It is substantial without being heavy, flavorful without becoming harsh and firm while still melting luxuriously on the palate.
Every wheel represents summer grass, mountain cattle, copper vats, wooden hoops and months of careful maturation. For cheese lovers, Beaufort d’Alpage offers something increasingly rare: a food whose identity remains unmistakably connected to the landscape, animals and people that produced it.